Firstly, to access the rear wheel hub the freewheel has to be removed. To remove this the correct removal tool is needed and they come in many different shapes; e.g. some have indent teeth to slot into the center of the freewheel. Some removal tools come with a built-in handle to help stable the tool upon removal, my tool does not therefore an adjustable wrench is needed with the tool to remove the freewheel. If you want further detail of the removal of the freewheel then stay posted or check 'Blog Posts' for the future post on the freewheel overhaul.
Once having access to the hub the next step is to remove the outer nuts and sometimes washers and then the outside of the cone is exposed. Once the cone has been undone then the bearings can be seen and if a cone and nut from any side has been completely removed then the axle can be removed from the hub. If the wheel has loose bearings then be careful when opening the cones as the bearings on both sides can fall out; you will want to count how many bearings are needed in the hub or you may want to reuse them, not lose them.
Grease used: Lithium Marine Grease |
Here is the before and after image of a full degrease and clean of the hub and I mistakenly left the bearings in the first photo. Any bicycle degreaser or mineral spirits will work fine here, I have even found amazing results when using car engine spray degreaser. It also helps to have a variety of brushes and cleaning tools, even an old toothbrush will work perfectly and remember to wash off the cleaner with water and then dry the components and try not to use a metal scrub (e.g. wire wool). Once all components are clean then they are ready to be greased and installed.
Thoroughly grease the inside of the hub and insert the bearings on both sides, the grease will hold these bearings in while inserting the axle. Insert the axle being careful not to move the bearings and then screw on the cones, leaving an equal amount of axle on both sides of the hub to be put back on the bike later. As this is the rear wheel, on the freewheel (threaded) side there will be a metal spacer between the cone and the locking nut, make sure there is still an even amount of exposed thread on both sides of the axle after installing this. Then add the locking nuts after the cones but before tightening the nuts, make sure the cones are securely tighten leaving next to no play but making sure the bearings can still more smoothly/freely. When happy with the cones position, use a wrench (typically 15mm) to hold the cones while using another wrench to tighten the nuts. When complete, test that the wheel spins smoothly and with no play (movement) when pulling the axle, it should look like the image below where I have also added the skewer.
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